Central Serengeti, January 2026

2026 started off strong. It was only the second day of the year, and we had already spotted 47 lions on the morning drive. Fast forward to late afternoon, and I found myself eye-to-eye with a young male lion who was curiously looking at me, no more than 10 meters away. I felt a tap on my shoulder, “Madam”, it was Dennis, the Camp Manager at Tabi, the lodge where we were staying. “Could I kindly ask you to go up to the dining area? They are hunting.” I quickly regained composure and looked around - the two Spanish tourists sitting across the fire were long gone, and it was just me, Dennis and the Maasai warrior who had come to my rescue. The male lion was still cautiously gazing at us, now joined by two females slowly walking up behind him.

I turned around and, escorted by Dennis (who was visibly baffled by my complete lack of self-preservation instinct), moved up to the main area. The young male and the two females slowly approached the fire, now that all of the people were safely gone, and sat down to enjoy the heat. I couldn’t believe my eyes - I thought animals were afraid of the fire? All the things we think we know until we find ourselves in the wild…

For those of you who don’t know me, there is some important background information to help you understand why that moment with the lion was so special. Seven years ago, when Gabi and I first came to the Serengeti, my feelings about the wild were completely different. I was terrified by every sound of the savannah, haunted by nightmares and sleepless nights, convinced that the lions were coming to get me in my sleep. And yes, that trip was very different - we were “wild" camping out in a public campsite, sleeping in small, unprotected two-person tents. A very different kind of safari and a long story for another time…

But it is safe to say that a lot has changed since then. Gabi and I, together with Satya, started Ethera Travel about three years ago. We saw the business grow, we learned a lot about the wild; and we were now in Tanzania to launch our local team, explore the Serengeti in depth and experience this magical place.

So when the young lion approached me, I realised for the first time that something in me had changed. The fear, that gripping, cold, menacing fear that I first felt all these years back, was gone. What had settled in its place was a very different emotion - curiosity. And right alongside it, a lot of humility and respect for nature. No fear, no panic, just a quiet admiration and the understanding that while nature need not be scary, we have to show it the respect it deserves. So when the lions want to come to the fire, you let them enjoy it in peace.

While I was reminiscing about fear and the meaning of it all, the lion spectacle was just starting. The full pride came into the camp grounds while we were having our dinner. They were indeed hunting - we could see them in the dim light approaching their prey. They were likely going after a small herd of Thomson’s gazelles who were huddled down by the river bank. We counted a total of fifteen lions, some adults, some teenagers, some babies. They walked in a single file through the camp, approaching slowly and hiding in the shadows of the falling night on their way down to the river. They took a few breaks under some acacia trees to regroup and plan. A young female stood to the side nibbling on some grass. “Well she is not that different from our cat back home, is she?,” Satya wondered.

Eventually the pride seemed ready for the final stage of the hunt. There were two groups of females and younger lions waiting behind and the three lions I had seen earlier - the two females and the young male - took the lead and quietly approached the gazelles. It would have all gone impeccably well if it wasn’t for the family of baboons sleeping on a big acacia tree over the river. As soon as they spotted the lions, they started sounding their very loud, screeching alarm calls. Everyone now knew that the lions were there, and the hunt was over. So the pride stayed around camp for a little bit longer, probably considering their next move. They walked around and curiously explored the camp grounds, a few of them circled the fire pit once more, a few others sharpened their nails on some nearby trees. Until they all finally seemed to have a plan and disappeared into the night, single file, looking for the next potential prey.

And what about us you ask? Well a lot of the food got cold as neither me, nor Gabi, nor Satya, could sit down and eat with all this action around. We were up, standing at the edge of the main tent, following every movement of the lions and taking some blurry videos - because honestly, nobody would have believed this otherwise. Finally, once the lions had left, we could sit down and enjoy our three-course meal, which, under other circumstances, would have been the highlight of that night. After dinner, the Maasai warrior who kept guard at camp along with a few staff members escorted us back to our tents. The lions were long gone, and nobody knows them better than the Maasai, so as long as we followed his instructions, we were in safe hands.

***

So what to make of this experience? Perhaps the right reaction to the curious lion walking towards me should have been fear. Perhaps I should have run away the moment I heard someone shouting “lions” from the other side of the main tent. Or perhaps not.*

I thought a lot about this particular accident. Why do we fear the unknown so much? Why was I so scared of the animals in the savannah years ago, when I had not even come across them yet; and where did that fear go? At the start of a new year - in a world as unpredictable as ever - it may feel like the most natural emotion is fear. Horror, even. But if there is anything that we can learn from nature, it is that fear, while it may serve an evolutionary purpose, is not the wisest of companions. Instead, I would advise approaching the unknown with a different set of emotions: curiosity, humility, respect, compassion. It is only when we take on that mindset that we are able to experience the true magic of life. So please, let the unknown surprise you; you never know what whimsical adventure it may bring.

*Please be respectful and smart around wild animals. Don’t panic, don’t be afraid but please follow the instructions of the guides and camp staff around you, they know best. When you see a lion approach, get up and leave. Feel the magic, be grateful, respect it. Then walk away.